Few skills are as fundamental to climbing as working with rope. Your life literally depends on your mastery of the subject.
For starters, you need to understand the distinction between a “knot” and other key terms related to rope management:
Knot – a knot is tied in a rope or piece of webbing.
Hitch – a hitch connects a rope to another object like a carabiner or even another rope.
Bend – a bend is a knot that joins two ropes together.
Bight – a bight is a section of rope between the ends.
Standing end – the standing end or part of the rope is the side that’s not being used during knot tying.
Working end – the working end or part of the rope is the side that is being used during knot tying.
Essential Climbing Knots, Hitches and Bends
There are many knots worth knowing as a climber, but with these six essential climbing knots, hitches and bends, you can complete many of the most fundamental climbing tasks, like securing the rope to a harness, rappelling and building anchors:
Figure 8 Knot (Rewoven Figure 8 Knot/Figure 8 Follow Through Knot)
The Figure 8 Knot is the most common knot for tying the rope into your harness.
Grab the end of the rope in one hand; extend your arm and measure out a length from your fist to your opposite shoulder.
Pinch a bight from where you’ve measured at your shoulder and twist it one full rotation so that the standing part of the rope crosses over the working side, then twist it again so that it comes around to its original position.
Then pass the working end of the rope through the loop from front to back. The result should look like a figure 8.
To form the follow through, pass the end of the rope through both tie-in points on your harness, and pull the knot in close to you.
Now feed the rope back through the knot, tracing the original knot as you go. You want the working end to run completely parallel to the standing part of the original knot.
Once you’ve worked the end all the way through, dress the knot by making sure the strands are neat and run parallel.
Tighten the knot by pulling each strand tight individually. Make sure you have at least six inches of tail. You can check the knot by counting five sets of parallel lines.
Clove Hitch
The Clove Hitch allows you to secure a rope in place on a carabiner. It’s easy to untie after taking a heavy load, and quickly unravels when you unclip it from the carabiner. Many climbers use it to connect directly to an anchor. You can tie a clove hitch with two hands or with one.
Hold the rope in both hands, and form a loop by crossing the rope over itself.
Then form a second loop in the same way.
Now move the second loop behind the first, and clip both loops with a carabiner. Dress the hitch by pulling both strands tight.
If you’re at the anchor, you can also tie the clove while you hold onto the anchor carabiner with one hand.
Grab the rope in your fist with your finger pointing down the rope.
Bring your hand up so that your finger points up and toward you.
Then clip the rope into the carabiner.
Now grab the rope below the carabiner and do the same thing again. Grab it with your finger pointing down, bring it up so that your finger points up and toward you, and clip it into the carabiner.
Dress the hitch by pulling both strands tight.
Girth Hitch
The Girth Hitch is an easy way to connect a loop of webbing or cord to a fixed point like a tree, or your harness’s tie-in points. Here we show the hitch around a carabiner, but the process is the same on any object.
Circle one end of the loop around the object.
Then feed the other end of the loop through the first loop, and pull it snug.
Twofold Fisherman's Knot (Grapevine Knot)
The Double Fisherman's is an exceptionally secure approach to join two snags or structure a rope into a circle. It's extremely hard to loosen after it gets weighted, so it settles on a decent decision for Prusik circles. The Double Fisherman's is basically two twofold overhand bunches arranged. You can make a Triple Fisherman's by utilizing triple overhand bunches.
Bring the two finishes of the rope together so they cover.
Hold the finish of one rope in your clench hand with your thumb over the rope.
At that point, wrap the functioning finish of the other rope over your thumb and the main rope, bring it under, and completely fold it around again to shape a X.
Cautiously slide your thumb out and feed the rope through the X you just framed.
Pull the bunch tight. You should see a X on one side and two equal strands on the opposite side with the other rope inside the bunch.
Presently get the other rope through so you have sufficient leeway to work with, and rehash the interaction. The rope that you get through will be your new working end.
Structure a X over your thumb, and push the finish of the rope through the X. You'll wind up with two bunches with two strands of rope between them.
Dress the bunches by pulling them tight. At that point arrange the external ropes to bring the bunches.
The completed Double Fisherman's ought to have two Xs on one side and four equal strands on the other. Ensure that the two ropes have a lot of tail (About 18 creeps of tail is proper when integrating two ropes for rappelling. At any rate three crawls of tail is required when making circles with adornment rope).
European Death Knot (Overhand Bend)
Generally known as the European Death Knot, or EDK for short, the Overhand Bend is a basic, compelling approach to join two rappel ropes. The significant advantage is that the bunch straightens out when stacked, so it's less inclined to stall out on the divider as you pull the ropes down. When setting up to rappel, ensure you don't unintentionally tie a Flat Figure 8 Knot (now and then called an Offset Figure 8 Knot). The Flat Figure 8 is certifiably not an appropriate method to associate two ropes for rappelling.
Bring the closures of the two ropes together and attach a basic overhand bunch with the two strands. Ensure the ropes run totally equal all through the bunch.
Dress and fix the bunch by pulling each of the four strands tight independently. Try to leave in any event 18 creeps of tail, and tie a plug tie in one of the tails.
In spite of the name, the European Death Knot is secure when appropriately tied. The name is said to have been authored by American climbers who proclaimed the bunch risky in the wake of seeing Europeans utilizing it. Nonetheless, appropriate use has demonstrated something else and the bunch is regularly used.
Autoblock Knot
The Autoblock is a speedy, simple to-tie erosion hitch that can hold one or the other way. It's most regularly used to back up rappels.
Spot your circle behind the two ropes so you have a huge circle on one side and a little circle on the other. The joining bunch ought to be on the little circle, near the ropes, and marginally counterbalance so it's not in the curve of the circle.
Fold the enormous circle over the ropes however many occasions as you need until you're left with two little circles.
At that point cut the two circles into a carabiner.
Dress the hitch by ensuring the circles run equal and it grasps the rope.
Ensure that the joining hitch is balanced so it's not in the twist of the circle.
Extra Climbing Knots, Hitches and Bends
Despite the fact that not recorded as fundamental, these bunches, hitches and curves are generally utilized while climbing, particularly for halfway and progressed strategies:
Anchor Knot
The Bowline Knot is a helpful bunch for binds the rope to a tree or other characteristic anchor. It's probably not going to slip when stacked, yet it may shake free when it's dumped, so make certain to uphold it with a plug tie.
Start by folding the rope over the item you're associating with the rope.
Structure a little circle in the standing side of the rope by getting the rope over itself. The side prompting the functioning finish of the rope should be on the highest point of the circle.
Presently feed the stirring end up through the circle with the goal that it runs corresponding to the standing side.
At that point bring the functioning end behind the standing side, around it, and back down through the circle.
Dress the bunch by pulling on the two strands that get through the circle and the standing side simultaneously.
Pull all strands tight independently.
Twofold Bowline Knot
The Double Bowline Knot is an elective bunch for integrating with a bridle. It's simpler to unfasten than a Figure 8 in the wake of taking various falls. But since of this, it must be upheld with a twofold overhand bunch.
Feed the rope through the connection focuses on your bridle.
Snatch the standing end and wrap it over your palm between your thumb and index finger.
Presently snatch the rope between your hand and your tackle and fold it twice over your thumb.
Slide the circles from your thumb, and turn them so the rope prompting the functioning end is on top.
Feed the stirring end up through the circles so it runs corresponding to the standing side.
At that point, bring the functioning end behind the standing side, around it, and back down through the circles.
Dress the bunch by pulling on the two strands that get through the circles and the standing side simultaneously.
Pull each of the four strands tight exclusively.
Wrap up by tying a twofold overhand bunch against the twofold anchor.
Climbing Knots on a Bight
These bunches let you structure a circle in a rope. They are "on a bight" since they're tied in the rope and not on the end.
Figure 8 Knot on a Bight
The Figure 8 Knot on a Bight is a helpful bunch to utilize any time you need to frame a circle in a rope, particularly if the bunch needs to take a substantial burden.
Discover a bight in the rope, squeeze it into a circle and hold it in one hand.
With your other hand, squeeze the two strands about a foot from the bight.
Get the bight over the standing strands to shape a circle.
At that point bring the bight under the rope, back finished and through the circle.
Dress the bunch by ensuring the strands run equal, and pull each strand tight separately.
Overhand Knot on a Bight (Overhand Loop)
The Overhand Knot on a Bight is incredible when you need to shape a circle in the rope, particularly if it will take a lighter burden.
Discover a bight in the rope, squeeze it into a circle and hold it in one hand.
With your other hand, squeeze the two strands about a foot from the bight.
Get the bight over the standing strands to shape a circle.
At that point, bring the bight under the rope, and through the circle.
Dress the bunch by ensuring the strands run equal, and pull each strand tight independently.
Butterfly Knot
The Butterfly Knot frames a circle in a rope and is particularly valuable for the center individual from a rope group since it will not misshape after a draw one or the other way.
Get the segment of rope where you need to get married and circle it over your open palm multiple times, beginning near your thumb.
Move the strand nearest to your thumb over the other two circles.
Snatch the circle that is currently nearest to your thumb and pull out some additional leeway.
At that point, move it over the other two circles, and afterward pass it under.
Take the rope off your hand, and pull it tight.
Dress the bunch by pulling the two standing strands aside.
Overhand Knots for Climbing
These bunches are a minor departure from the straightforward overhand bunch. They permit you to make a safe plug hitch in the rope.
Barrel Knot (Triple Overhand Knot)
The Barrel Knot is the bunch of decision for shutting the framework while belaying or rappelling; it does the basic occupation of guaranteeing that the finish of the rope can't coincidentally take care of through the belay gadget.
Discover the finish of the rope and pull out about a careful distance.
Wrap the rope over the center of your palm with the functioning side on the rear of your hand.
Fold the functioning end around your hand and the standing side of the rope to shape a X over your palm.
Fold the functioning end around again so that there are two equal strands crossing the first.
Feed the end under every one of the three circles beginning close to your thumb.
Cautiously slide the rope off your hand, keeping the strands in position as you fix the bunch.
Dress the bunch by ensuring the stands are resemble and fix the bunch by pulling on the two sides of the rope.
Ensure you have in any event 18 creeps of tail.
Plug Knot (Double Overhand Knot)
A Stopper Knot (actually a Double Overhand) is helpful as a reinforcement hitch for different bunches. It's likewise one portion of a Double Fisherman's Knot.
At the point when you're utilizing the twofold overhand as a reinforcement tie, try to tie it as close as possible to the bunch you're rearing up to hold the rope back from slipping.
Hold the rope in one clench hand with your thumb laying on the rope. Ensure you have around 18 crawls of tail.
Fold the functioning end around your thumb, bring it under, and completely fold it around again to shape a X.
At that point, slide your thumb out and feed the rope through the X you just framed.
Dress the bunch by pulling it tight.
Curves for Climbing
Curves offer alternatives for associating two ropes, or making a circle out of rope or webbing.
While the models underneath are actually twists, it's extremely basic to hear individuals call some of them hitches so that is the thing that we've done here.
Figure 8 Bend (Flemish Bend)
This is a simple method to associate two ropes or to shape a line into a circle. It's basically a figure 8 Follow Through Knot attached with two ropes. Be mindful so as not to tie a Flat Figure 8 Knot (now and then called an Offset Figure 8). The Flat Figure 8 is certifiably not an appropriate method to interface two ropes for rappelling.
To frame the figure 8 bunch, measure out about a careful distance of rope.
Squeeze a bight from where you've estimated at your shoulder and bend it one full turn so the standing piece of the rope gets over the functioning side; at that point contort it again until it comes around again to its unique position.
At that point pass the functioning finish of the rope through the circle from front to back. This is the figure 8 bunch.
Presently feed the other rope back through the bunch, following the first bunch as you go. You need the functioning finish to run totally corresponding to the standing piece of the first bunch.
Whenever you've worked the end completely through, dress the bunch by ensuring the strands are perfect and run equal.
Fix the bunch by pulling each strand tight separately. Ensure you have a lot of tail (About 18 crawls of tail is fitting when integrating two ropes for rappelling. At any rate three crawls of tail is required when making circles with embellishment string.) You can check the bunch by tallying five arrangements of equal lines.
Water Knot (Ring Bend)
The Water Knot is the go-to for joining two bits of cylindrical webbing. The water bunch can work itself free over the long run, so check and retighten it regularly.
Start by tying a free overhand bunch in one finish of the webbing. Ensure there's a lot of tail.
Take the opposite finish of the webbing and follow it through the bunch. The key is to keep the two strands of webbing totally equal all through the bunch.
Whenever you've taken care of the webbing right through, ensure each side has at any rate three crawls of tail, and dress the bunch by pulling all strands tight independently.
Climbing Hitches
Amazingly flexible, hitches are not difficult to tie, they manage their work competently and, when you eliminate them from the item, they quickly disentangle: There's no bunch left to loosen.
Munter Hitch ( Italian hitch )
The Munter Hitch can be utilized to belay or rappel on the off chance that you lose your belay gadget. Search out guidance on belaying and rappelling with the Munter hitch prior to endeavoring it without anyone else.
Hold the rope in two hands, and structure a circle by getting the rope over itself.
At that point structure a second circle similarly.
Presently overlap the two circles toward one another like you're shutting a book and clasp a locking carabiner through the two circles.
Grinding Hitches for Climbing
Grinding hitches let you briefly append a string to a rope. They grasp the rope when weighted, and slide uninhibitedly when you eliminate the heap. In case you're searching for a very solid chomp into the rope, utilize a more slender string. Additionally, the more occasions you fold the rope over the rope, the more tight the hold. In any case, more wraps or a more slender rope likewise make the hitch more hard to move when un-weighted.
The models underneath are actually the two hitches, however most climbers call them ties, so that is the thing that we've done here.
Prusik Knot (Prusik Hitch)
The Prusik Knot (in fact it's a hitch) is the most widely recognized grating hitch. It's incredible for climbing, and it's a staple for chasm salvage frameworks since it will hold the rope from one or the other heading of pull. The Prusik is basically numerous size hitches.
Spot your circle behind the rope.
Presently feed the side with the associating hitch through the opposite side.
At that point fold it over the rope freely, and feed it through once more. Do this in any event multiple times. Ensure that the bunch is somewhat aside, far removed.
Pull the hitch tight, and ensure it holds the rope.
Dress it by ensuring every one of the circles are equal and the joining hitch is balanced so it's not in the curve of the circle.
Security is your obligation. No article or video can supplant legitimate guidance and experience. Ensure you practice legitimate methods and security rules before you climb.
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